SPRING DREAMING
Chef Ype Von Hengst preparing new menu test dishes.
SPRING DREAMING
New dishes are on the horizon from Chef Ype.
On a Friday morning in late January, Chef Ype Von Hengst was dreaming about spring.
In fact, just before the breakfast rush, decked in a white work jacket and colorful glasses, he was standing in the back corner of our Rockville restaurant, surrounded by the staff, showcasing new dishes that might make it onto the Silver Diner menu in just a few short months.
Describing his inspiration, he spins around a plate filled with a colorful pop of Asian peanut curry sauce over vegetable-studded bibimbap rice topped with grilled tofu skewers. Getting downright excited, he talks about the new line of melts that he’s been imagining, which today includes one creatively inspired by a classic Cuban sandwich, with a special touch of pickled onions.
By now, the tables have begun to fill, and as soon as the meeting wraps, the servers whisk out across the dining room, excited to tell their guests about the new menu items being tested. This is just the beginning of spring menu development process; over the course of the next several weeks, Chef Ype and his culinary team—and their guests—will have tried out more than a dozen new dishes, all in hopes of finding a few all-stars to add to the regular rotation.
It’s an unusual process for a usual diner, where most guests have come to expect a massive menu that never changes. And sure, best-sellers like the tuna melt will always remain at Silver Diner. But here, Chef Ype is also constantly making minor improvements, and menu testing for new dishes takes place two to three times a year. It’s simply an embodiment of his restaurants’ mission—bringing the diner experience into modern day.
“We call ourselves the ‘next-generation diner,’ so we constantly evolve,” he says, later sitting at a nearby booth. “And that's why, after almost 40 years, we’re still here.”
So, what goes into the making of a new menu item? All year long, Chef Ype is on the lookout for new inspiration. He finds it by traveling to other cities and countries, by flipping through magazines and newspapers, by closely following social media, and even by perusing grocery store aisles in search of intriguing ingredients. Exhibit A: a recent trip to Trader Joe’s influenced the yuzu-miso chicken stir-fry that was trialed this winter. He keeps a running list of ideas. But the rest lives in his imagination.
“My mind always works 24/7,” says Chef Ype. “I wake up and I think about food.”
At the same time, he’s also wary of trends, looking not for a fleeting flavor but rather inventive yet enduring combinations—as well as opportunities to meet the needs of his guests.
And unlike many chefs, Chef Ype actually knows exactly what those are. Often, he can be found walking the floor, asking guests what they think. And after every meal during menu testing, each diner receives a survey, on which they are asked to rate those prospective new dishes in terms of quality, taste, portion, and value—all of which will play a part in whether or not it makes the final cut.
“I like to listen to people, because if you listen to people, you learn a lot, including what you can do better.”
“We take all of this into consideration, and it really helps us,” says Chef Ype. “I’ve worked with many chefs who were not open to the ideas of others. But I like to listen to people, because if you listen to people, you learn a lot, including what you can do better.”
For Chef Ype, feedback is a top priority. In addition to guests, he seeks input from servers and line cooks on up to management, even once notably running out in the middle of a meeting to adjust the coffee strength after learning of complaints. And of course, in his collaborative kitchens, he urges his team to share their visions, too.
“I try to instill in them, ‘Hey, bring your ideas to the table and let’s try them out,’” he says.
In the days leading up to a menu testing week, Chef Ype works closely with Chris Hiller, who assists with recipe development, and Naun Martinez, who oversees quality control. While the restaurant is open for guests, they cook each new dish in the Rockville kitchen, perfecting the flavor, technique, and presentation until it’s ready to be served. Then, after the surveys come in, the Silver Diner team meets to discuss the results and make a final decision on the new additions. This April, those items will land on menus across all restaurant locations.
From start to finish, “It’s quite a process,” says Chef Ype, taking a sip of coffee before dashing back to work. “But it’s important, to make sure that we’re constantly responding to our guests, to our team, and to our local communities,” with another key consideration being menu prices in relation to the current economy.
By 10 a.m., he’s disappeared through the kitchen’s silver swinging door. After all, he has his next dishes to dream up. Maybe a crabcake sourdough melt with a lobster cream sauce, in an homage to the restaurant’s Maryland roots. And before long—whether we know it with all this snow or not—it will once again be spring.
The Sardinian Coast in Italy.
INTO THE BLUE
Have you heard of Blue Zones? Around the world, there are special places where people’s lifestyles are said to help them live longer and healthier lives. From Japan, Italy, and Greece to Costa Rica and even California, these “blue zone” principles include eating a nutritious diet, staying active, and being part of a community, all of which perfectly align with Silver Diner’s mission. Guests can already find fresh ingredients and global flavors on our menu today, like our beloved ancient grain salad and all-day shakshuka. But expect more “blue zone” inspiration from Chef Ype throughout the year ahead.